- Ford F150 Fuel Injector Replacement
- Pcs Strong Fuel Injector Durable Anti Corrosive Efficent Fuel Injection Nozzle Replacement 0280150556 For Ford
- What Are Fuel Injectors?
- Gdi Fuel Injectors Repair Seal Kit For Ford F150 3.5l Turbo Ecoboost 2
Ford F150 Fuel Injector Replacement – I’m pretty sure I have a leaking injector, truck starts hard after sitting, smells like gas when it comes on but clears up quickly. It starts normally on very cold mornings, or if you restart it without leaving it.
Read a lot of forum posts and people have had this problem before with needle style injectors on old trucks. They will drip fuel into the cylinders. I will do some more testing this week for a leak to check and pull some spark plugs,
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My question is has anyone used aftermarket injectors and if so what have been your experiences? I don’t want the “rebuilt” stuff, I want new modern multi-hole injectors. Xcel makes them for $380. set, + several others in the correct flow rate of 19 lbs/hr. They sell complete sets on Amazon very cheap, but they don’t want to gamble on them. Please share your experiences
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I don’t think that’s your problem, injectors rarely fail. Guessing and swapping with aftermarket injectors is asking for trouble.. You haven’t done any diagnostic work to come to your conclusion. Have you connected a fuel pressure gauge to the rail to check the pressure and does the fuel system release pressure quickly right after shutting off? I would concentrate on looking for an external fuel leak or a bad fuel pressure regulator. This is easily tested by pulling its vacuum line and ANY presence or smell of fuel means it has a blown diaphragm.
I have a pressure gauge and will leak test this week, but I’m betting one or more of the injectors are leaking. The only smell of gas is when starting after sitting. In addition to hard starting, the truck, which runs and drives very well, will gradually start to idle after a minute or 2, which also indicates leaking fuel injectors.
I was really hoping someone would hear back about the Accel 150819 fuel injectors, I emailed them and asked if this was a direct replacement, but I haven’t heard back yet. Summit racing lists them as compatible, other websites say no.
Update – finally navigated the confusing Accel website, according to them the correct injector for my truck is the Accel 150821 injector with 21lbs/hr flow. For less than $400. for a set of 8 this is the direction I lean
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~TravisK~ wrote: ↑Thu Dec 09, 2021 11:30 pm You also have the 19 pound injectors. Not 21. That’s what I understood too, but the Accel website lists 19lb as incompatible and 21lb as correct. Under the 19lb injector they only list the 302 mustang.
Ok i just called and spoke to holly/accel tech support. According to them, the reason they recommend the higher rated 2 lb/hr nozzles is because of today’s fuel.
It makes sense to me, based on some quick research RFG (Reformulated Gasoline) was introduced in 1995, a year after my truck was built. I well remember that stinky piece of crap they called MTBE, which they added for about 5 years, then they started finding it in the ground water and banned it in 2000-2002.
Now we have at least 10% ethanol, and it’s usually more like 12% or more in actual testing. So I think I’ll go with the part that Holly recommends.
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I would get your injectors and test them. And I would honestly trust the Ford reman injectors over anything made from an Acello. But that’s just me.
In several decades of working on these trucks in particular and all vehicles in general, I have never found an injector that failed in any way that wasn’t crushed or burned. It is virtually impossible for an injector to leak internally.
To do all 8, does anyone know if there are any other parts needed besides the plenum manifold gasket?
Freezing here, it was about 30F when we finally got outside to do this, but here it is. numbers are absolute, not cumulative
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Final reading after 21 minutes – 30 psi so lost 8 psi in 21 minutes. Our FPR is only a year old and we installed a good Delphi unit. Both tanks and pumps are new.
This is up for debate, it doesn’t leak as much as I expected. Some might say this leakage rate is normal. I suspect we have a leaking injector somewhere, not a huge leak and not enough to hydroblock the cylinder, but enough to cause the problems I described earlier in the thread.
Tomorrow and monday are nice 60 degree days, she is breaking down for new injectors. If anyone is interested, here is a thread with the same problems, same problem, solved with new injectors. Although his leaked much worse
~TravisK~ wrote: ↑Sat 18, 2021 9:25 PM Besides the smell of gas, does your truck smoke at all when you first start it up? no
What Are Fuel Injectors?
Fuel injectors do NOT leak. Fuel pressure drops as pressure bleeds backward through the pump(s) and/or forward through the return check valve(s). Any “leaking” gas leaks INTO the tank(s).
Steve83 wrote: ↑Sun Dec 19, 2021 10:33 am The fuel injectors are NOT leaking. We’ll find out tomorrow. The industry stopped using pintle style injectors decades ago and if you click on the link above or search any f150 forum you will find people who have had the same problems as me.
Today we disassembled the plenum, removed the old injectors and installed new ones. Here’s a video that covers plenum removal pretty well
One thing we didn’t do was remove the throttle body. No reason to remove the throttle body, just leave it on the plenum. A couple of observations.
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1) the center right plenum intake screw (there are 6 of them in total), is Torx T40. You will need to use 1/4″ drivers and a long extension, + a good antenna style magnet to get the screw out. I also unscrewed the vacuum wood directly above it.
2) Some of the colored, hard plastic vacuum lines will bite off the tree, no matter how careful you are. I looked for a Vacuum harness on e-bay, but only found ones for the F250. The best thing to do is to finish breaking all the fragile parts, then find a rubber vacuum hose that fits tightly and connect the 2 broken ends. Or replace the entire line with a 5/32″ ID vacuum hose if you don’t mind losing the color coding
3) be sure to cover all intake holes immediately after removing the plenum, either stuff rags inside or tape them. If you drop a bolt or screw down there and don’t notice, goodbye motor
4) before removing the fuel line, wear rubber gloves and vacuum everything around the injector first. scrape all the pieces with the tool. The passenger side on our truck that sat for 10 years, under the plenum, was pretty thin
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5) Make sure both O-rings are removed with each old injector. One of our passenger side, 4 uppers were stuck in the fuel rail and had to be pulled out. If you miss this, it can cause all kinds of problems.
6) CLEAN the injector holes in the manifold with Q-tips dipped in carb cleaner. Ours were super dirty and dirt trapped here will cause o-rings to leak
7) We used Teflon lube spray on our Orings before installation. Normally you use silicone grease on the O-rings, but our manual specifically says not to do that because it can clog the micro-holes in the nozzle. Twist and turn to seat in the engine head. Lubricate the fuel rail as well and just slide it down over all 4 injectors, ours went pretty smooth.
8- pay attention to the rotation. 6 pointing towards the valve cover, 2 rear on the driver’s side pointing inwards to clear the coil support.
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9) It’s a good idea to apply some electrical contact cleaner to the connectors before plugging them all back in. This is a specific product, do not experiment with mystery solvents.
Tomorrow, after hopefully the right gasket arrives (the first one they showed us today was 2 pieces, WTF?) we’ll finish and report the results.
Draganm wrote: ↑Sat Dec 18, 2021 21:48 ~TravisK~ wrote: ↑Sat Dec 18, 2021 21:25 pm Besides the gas smell, does your truck smoke at all when you first start it up? no If you had leaky injectors your truck would blow black smoke when you first start it up.
~TravisK~ wrote: ↑Mon Dec 20, 2021 13:20 If you had leaking injectors, your truck would blow black smoke when you first start it up. I don’t know about that, it would take a lot of gas to get the smoke out, it takes very little gas to make a wet spark plug and hard ignition.
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We finally got a real gasket from Felpro, which is an exact match to the original factory gasket. We installed it and torqued it to 25ft/lbs per the manual. I forgot to mention yesterday, but these 6 screws were almost loose when we took them off. I’m not sure what happened here, maybe the thermal cycling of the aluminum over time pulled them? Anyway, I added some medium strength Loctite and first
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